HISTORY
A History of the Avondale Farm Preserve
The village of Avondale is within the town of Westerly and lies on the eastern shore of the Pawcatuck River, approximately four miles south of downtown Westerly and one mile north of Watch Hill. Prior to the arrival of the first Europeans in the 1600s, the land east of the Pawcatuck River as far as Weekapaug was home to indigenous peoples of the Eastern Niantic tribe, who were allied with the Narragansett tribe. Much of the present town of Westerly was deeded to the original white settlers by Niantic sachem Sosoa in 1660.
Avondale traces its history as a village back to 1750 when it became known as Lottery Village. Col. Joseph Pendleton held a large, 700-acre tract of land including present day Avondale. The land had been passed down from Pendleton’s grandfather, Capt. James Pendleton, who settled Westerly in 1669. In 1699, the Pendletons reportedly operated a tavern on the first floor of a building and a brothel on the second. In August 1749, Col. Joseph Pendleton, a descendant, owned the land. He incurred major financial losses during a trip to the West Indies, where he lost his uninsured ship and its cargo of molasses and rum as well as his son who was captaining the voyage. Col. Pendleton successfully petitioned the Assembly of the Colony of Rhode Island to divide his land into 124 quarter-acre house lots to be sold by lottery, with the proceeds used to settle his debts. The grant was given February 27, 1750, and “Lottery Village” or “Lotteryville” was created.
Early inhabitants of Lotteryville were farmers and fisherman, but later included sailors and shipmasters. Much of the village’s growth occurred during the late 1800s. In 1847, the first church in the village was built at a cost of $1,200. The building burned in 1852, but was replaced the next year with a structure still standing and known as “Avondale Chapel”. In 1867, a road from Lotteryville to Watch Hill was opened. In 1893, the village was renamed Avondale after a US Post Office was established there and complaints arose over the “lottery” label. Postal officials in Washington decreed that “Lotteryville” smacked of gambling and requested the good people of the village to come up with another name if they wanted a post office. Three names were proposed: Ninigret, Mastuxet, and Avondale. Two of the names had Indian origins, and the post officials responded that we already had enough Indian names in this part of the country, so Avondale was given the go-ahead.
Avondale Farm saw unusual action in 1969 when a plane carrying three passengers from Pennsylvania to Massachusetts was diverted to Westerly Airport in heavy fog. Unable to find the airport, the pilot forced his plane down in the field at Avondale Farm.
Several original buildings remain today, including the Avondale Chapel and Col. Pendleton’s circa 1740 home known today as the “Pendleton – Chapman Home”. Israel Chapman purchased the home and lot in 1812 and at the time owned property from the Pawcatuck River east to Weekapaug. For 150 years, Chapman’s family farmed the property as Avondale Farm, including pigs, more than 25,000 chickens, dairy farming peaking in 1942, and later haying.
In 1984, when there were no more farmers left in the Chapman family and the farmhouse and grounds were getting difficult to maintain, the Chapmans sold 71 acres, including the Chapman Farm, to a New York real estate development firm. The developer originally planned for 108 condominiums. The land was zoned for one-half acre lots, and the developer requested to change zoning to “planned development units”, which would allow as many condos as the developer pleased. After that request was rejected by the Westerly Town Council in 1986, the developer changed to plans for 43 single-home lots. In 1987, the developer filed a federal lawsuit against Jane Buffum, Irene Cabot, and Hatsy Moore (as well as former Town Manager, Glenn Miller), alleging these residents violated his civil rights by attempting to scuttle the project. These individuals were instrumental in campaigning against the development of the land, making the current Avondale Farm Preserve possible. The lawsuit was rejected in 1988, the developer lost the property in 1995 due to foreclosure, and the development went up for auction.
Sensing the urgency and risk, many people contributed to protecting the land. Neighborhood meetings were held and door to door fundraising occurred, securing private donations from members of the community.
A fund raising effort was championed by Dick Holliday and Bill McKendree and negotiations began to purchase the property, with assistance from Ruth O’Brien. In October 1998, with the help of many donations from residents and some state open space funding, the remaining thirty lot subdivision was purchased by The Westerly Land Trust for permanent preservation and public access. The acquisition of the Avondale Farm Preserve was significant in that it saved the WLT from dissolution, was the first acquired WLT property, and sparked interest in the WLT developing additional preservation initiatives.
Today, Avondale Farm Preserve is managed by WLT and open to the public for passive recreation, including birding. The land trust has enhanced the preserveby planting native species, pollinator-friendly plants, and converting a portion of the center field back to active farming. The Preserve hosts WLT’s annual events including the Farm Dinner and the Avondale 5K, Setting the Pace for Conservation.
The surrounding village of Avondale has changed little in the past century retaining its character as a small coastal settlement. We invite you to explore this special place while reflecting on its past, and to support the work of the Westerly Land Trust which makes this a wonderful place to live.
Become an annual member and learn more at westerlylandtrust.org.
ADDITIONAL HISTORY
OLD TIME LOTTERYVILLE
(Now known as Avondale)
Author unknown (1915)
In 1749 or 1750 Captain Joseph Pendleton was owner of a large farm, situated on the Pawcatuck River, in the southwestern part of Westerly. Captain Pendleton, in this year, lost his vessel, a Brigantine, with cargo of rum and molasses, without insurance, which he designated, “A heavy stroke of Providence.”
Unable to pay his debts, (because of this disaster) he received from the Rhode Island General Assembly, a grant, to set up part of his farm in a lottery. The land was divided into 126 building lots, in 5 Rows, 20 of these lots bordering on the river. Lot No. 111 contained the Great House, so called, which was the home of Joseph. The grant was executed by Isaac Sheffield, and Alias Thompson, with W. Babcock surveyor. Capt. Pendleton gave as a reason for a settlement here that, “It is near the mouth and on the navigable part of the Pawcatuck River, where there is plenty of oysters and other fish, to be taken at all times of the year. Plenty of stone brick, and good timber, suitable for building houses and vessels, near to be had very plenty.” The results of this lottery was, that Captain Pendleton received sufficient money to pay his indebtedness and to purchase another vessel with which to continue his business.
There were, built, and occupied, eleven (11) houses in the lottery (as it was called) from northeast, along the river.
At the north-east point (now India Point) was the home of Captain Lyman Hall (Captain Lyman Hall was of large stature and was remarkably strong. It is related of him that when a young man, on a ship bound to the East Indies (which carried guns because of pirates) he appealed to the captain that the crew might receive more and better food, and lifting a cannon, carrying it aft, placing it near the captain said, if three men together could return it, he would withdraw his appeal. No three were able to perform this feat so the captain granted Mr. Hall’s petition).
South of Captain Hall’s house, was that of Captain Nathaniel Barns where his three sons, Amos, Benjamin, and Acors were born. South on the adjoining land was home of David and wife Sally Pendleton. Following south on the river, next was the house of Captain Thomas Dunbar, later owned by Captain Oliver Babcock who sold it to John P. Hall 2nd. Whose son, Lyman Hall 4th Lived there. Across the road here was a long two room house which was first Gilbert Pendleton’s, then James Wilbur’s who with his mother occupied it. On the same side of the road, east of this, in the rear of what was George Nye’s house, was a small house, which was later owned by Noyce F. Kenyon and moved on to the site of this Wilbur house.
Captain Lyman Hall 2nd, later, built the house now George Nye’s and gave his son, Jesse Wilcox Hall, the corner lot, where he built his home and always lives. His son Erwin A. Hall, now resident there. Across the little cove in a bend of the river bank was the house (built by a Mr. Wilcox) of Captain Olery Nash, later the home of Siles Fitch. This house, still standing and occupied, known now for many year as the Dodge house, is the property of Edward A. Lodge. Next to this stood the Nathan Barber home. Still going south, on adjoining land was the home of Samuel Sheffield where James C. Babcock now lives. Some distance south from here was the home of Gilbert Pendleton and last, the house of his cousin, Paul Pendleton.
The remaining land adjacent to the river extending over the southern point, formed a farm. This farm was the home of Silas Babcock, then Peleg Babcock, later William Chapmans, and changed owners, until purchased by Bejamin H. and George F. Champlin. Since becoming the property of George F. Champlin, it has been greatly improved, one of the recent improvements being the removal of the large stone chimney in the main part of the house.
Later homes were built here by nine captains of whaling ships, who were Lotteryville boys. They were, Captain Lyman Hall on India Point where his son Captain Palmer Hall had the house torn down and a larger one built, Captain John P. Hall where his son Daniel C. Hall now lives, Captain Gilbert Pendleton where now William H. Burdick has his home, Captain Oliver Babcock who purchased the home of Capt. Nathan Barber whose home was where J. Franklin Hall’s now stands, Captain William Pendleton, son of Paul Pendleton and Capt. William C. Pendleton who lived in the house of his father David. A tenth was Capt. Hezekiah Dickens whose home was across the river now occupied by his son Amos H. Dickens.
Others of Lotteryville who were sea going were Capt. Lyman Hall, Capt. Thomas Dunbarm, Capt. J. Franklin Hall, Capt. Elery Nash (who built the house now owned by the widow of John F. Randall) Capt. Nash’s three sons, Capt. Charles, Capt. Albert and William, Capt. John F. Hall 2nd, his brother, Capt. Jesse H. Hall, and Capt. Jesse H. Hall Jr., Capt. George S. H. Barber and brother Capt. Nathan Barber, Capt. Daniel Babcock of the sixth generation from James Babcock (and Mary Lawton) the first white settler on the land where Daniel Babcock had his home and which has always been the property of the Babcocks. It is now owned by the widow and son (Frederic P.) of Daniel’s son Ezra, Capt. Tristan D. Babcock’s son Oliver- Capt. Ethan Pendleton, -son of David who first lived where James O. Babcock lives. Then Capt. Ethan built back from the church the house which later was Capt. James Wilbur’s home now owned by Tristan D. Babcock, and lastly Capt. William C. Pendleton, son of David.
Across the river, beside the whaling captain spoken of, was Capt. Tristan Dickens whose home was just back from Hezekiah’s, on a hill where now stands a barn. His son Tristan who lived further up the river (where William Vincent now owns) and Tristan’s two sons, Capt. James R. and Capt. Samuel L. Dickens.
SCHOOLS
“The little red school house”, was built on the hill east of the road leading into the Lottery, in what is now C. P. Chapman’s pasture land. In 1824 this house was removed to the corner across the road, on land of Captain Thomas Dunbar’s and was enlarged and repaired. At a meeting of tax payers December 30, 1824 it was voted that five feet be added to the north-east end. Voted that the room be lathed and plastered, but not the entry. Voted, that the pulpit be moved to the center of a new partition against the entry, and that “the writing desks shall be finished off in the same order as the Red School House is, at Pawcatuck Bridge”. The amount of money contributed for these improvements was $49. It was stipulated in the deed of the land, on which the school house was placed, that the house was to be used for educational and religious purposes. Religious services were held until a church was erected in 1848.
In 1873 this school house was sold and was removed to C.P. Chapman’s premises and converted into a shop and garage, while on, or near the site was built a larger and more modern school house- - “ at a cost of not more than $2000.” The building committee was Oliver Babcock, Halsey W. Burdick and Jesse W. Hall while Amos A. Burdick was appointed collector and paid $20 for collecting the tax to pay the indebtedness of the district in building this house.
When the schools of the town were consolidated under town system in 1903 a two-room building was erected, the former house making the rear room. Now (1915) the school is closed, the pupils from here going by electric car into Westerly and the school building used only by the Grange society for their meetings.
One of the early teachers in the Lottery school was Susannah Clark who taught in 1799, in proof of which is a document in the possession of our librarian Emeritus, reading “Westerly Dec. 9, 1799 Capt. David Pendleton to S. Clark Dr. to schooling your son two quarters, at 6 shillings a quarter-12 shillings-Susannah Clark”. That this son, later, was himself a teacher is known, by these writings, (also in Mr. Ethan Wilcox’s possession). “This certifies that we have examined William Champion Pendleton in Reading, Writing and Arithmetic and think he is qualified to teach these branches – Westerly, October 30, 1828.
Jadediah W. Knight
Paul Babcock, Jr.
Howse Babcock, Jr.
and this “Westerly Examining Committee.”
March 16, 1829
Secretary of School Committee of Westerly will please to cause to be paid to William C. Pendleton for service at teaching school in the third district in said town, it being $9.42 – Remaining in treasury, due this district.
Samuel Sheffield
Benjamin Barns
Other teachers were:
Jonathan Allen, 1848.
Harriet Ware Stillman, 1853.
Henry E. Breed, 1854.
Libbens Wain,
Louise Pendleton
Sarah Pendleton
Sarah Wilson
Jedediah W. Knight
Curtis Nerriot
Henry Langworthy
B. Frank Bagley
B.F. Thompson
John Kenneth, 1863
Amanda Badcock, 1864
Charles H. Babcock, 1865
Maria S. Palmer
Eunice Palmer
John Taylor
James H. Irish (afterwards Reverend, who gave the first temperance address here)
George F. Coates
Tristan D. Babcock taught the first term in the new school house.
Some School Items.
“Voted in 1837 that the schoolmaster shall be boarded at $1 a week.”
“Voted in 1844 that the board for a man teacher shall be $1.50, and for a woman teacher $1.00.”
In 1847 “Voted that male teachers receive $2 a week for teaching and female teachers receive $1.50.”
Six years later, in 1853, Harriet Ware Stillman received as teacher here, the (then) munificent sum of $3.00 a week.
STORES
Benjamin Barns was the first to conduct a store in the village. It was known as the “Red Store” presumably being painted that color. Other merchants were Nathan Barber, Gilbert Pendleton, J. Franklin Hall, Samuel Champlin and George W. Stevens.
J. Franklin Hall erected a two story building where C. Palmer Chapman’s residence now stands, using the first floor for his store with a tenement above. Samuel Champlin purchased this store of J. Franklin Hall and after some years removing to Westerly, sold the property to George W. Stevens who was the last to conduct this business in the village.
DOCKS
The Pendleton and the Sheffield were the oldest docks, the former on land of Capt. David Pendleton south of India Point, and the latter on the land now owned by James O. Babcock. It is told that William C. Pendleton who was an expert caulker, one winter, caulked a vessel in the T of the Pendleton dock. On the Sheffield dock was built a store-house, where quantities of axe handles, hoes and hoe handles were stored, for shipping to New York and the West Indies. It is still related that in the great gale of a century ago (September 23rd, 1815) this dock, with store-houses and contents, was washed away and that for years after men who were spearing for eels in the coves and river above the Lottery, often caught these articles on their spears. Later Peleg Babcock built a dock on land of his, now known as Champlin’s dock. Another, built by Gilbert Pendleton is called Burdick’s dock. George S. H. Barber and his brother Nathan re-built what has always been called, the Barber dock.
Vessels came to Lotteryville from New York after cargoes. In 1847 and 1848 thousands of bushels of potatoes were shipped from here as far east as Cross Mills. As there were then but few horses owned by the farmers, the slow and heavy oxen used to transport them.
For many years there was a large and important trade in hoop-poles and cargoes of these were shipped from here to New York and the West Indies. From 1858 to 1868 seven eights (7/8) of the coal consumed in Westerly and adjacent villages, was brought by vessel, from New York to Lotteryville here transferred to lighters or scows and taken to Westerly. Many of the lighters were furnished with sails and when wind and weather permitted were sailed to their destination or “port”.
Later the vessels with coal came to the docks, as the river here was then much deeper than now, and horse power was used in the unloading of then on the lighters.
Church and Sunday Schools
For many years, a great number of the people of Lotteryville attended the “Hill church” on Quarry Hill and were faithful, loyal members there. About 1820 Reverend Benjamin Shaw came to Lotteryville. In 1824, he purchase of five Pendleton heirs, the house which was then called the Shaw house. Later Rowland Burdick and family lived in this house. Rowland Burdick’s son became the noted Seventh Day Baptist minister, Reverend Alfred Baily Burdick. Then Nathan Barber, whose wife was Sally, Tristen Dicken’s daughter, lived here. They Removed to Wisconsin, then the place changed owners, till sold to J. Franklin Hall who built his home and now resides here. Rev. Benjamin Shaw was a Methodist and organized a class that held meetings in the little red school house. His ministry extended over a period of eighteen (18) years.
In 1843, a branch of the First Baptist in Westerly was organized here, holding the meetings in the school house. The constituent of members of this branch church were Lyman Hall 2nd., David Pendleton, Ethan Pendleton, Jesse Brown, Abby F. Hall, Sarah Pendleton, Phebe A. Pendleton, and Eunice Brown.
In 1848, a church was erected costing $1200, the land for the church site being given by Ethan Pendleton with the provision that it should always be used for religious purposes or revert to his descendants. In 1849, this branch became an independent body with thirty-three members. The first pastor was Rev. Nicholas N. Hall 2nd. and Nathan Mitch. The church building was burned in 1851 but another which is still standing was erected on the site of the burned one, in 1852.
There was not again a resident-pastor though others held services here, more or less regularly. Rev. Thomas Tillinghast, son of Rev. Pardon Tillinghast, from Richmond (or West Greenwich) a free-will Baptist held meetings here every fifth Sunday of any month taking two or three days for the trip and holding services in the school-houses on the way. After his death his son Rev. Gilbert Tillinghast occasionally preached here. Rev. John Green, Seventh Day Baptist, of Hopkinton, Rev. Daniel Coon, Seventh Day Baptist, of Ashway, and Rev. Charles Lewis, First Day Baptist, of North Stonington were some of those who preached here.
There was a Sunday school for much of the early time and later James W. Pollette of Westerly conducted a very successful Sunday school for the number of years, beginning in June 1873. The “Narragansett Weekly” of Westerly has in the issue of July 2, 1874 an account of the first anniversary exercises of this school, when the secretary reported membership of seventy-seven (77), when speeches were made by Rev. S. G. Babcock, James W. Pollette, Palmer Hall and others. The singing, conducted by Daniel C. Hall and a solo by Lyman Hall 3rd, were especially commended.
In the fall of 1887 finding that the church building needed shingling and other repairs, a petition was circulated, the necessary funds obtained and the young men did the work. Its was at this time arranged to again have preaching services here and Rev. E. H. Witter, Seventh Day Baptist, of Dunn’s Corners church was engaged. He preached three (3) years, first monthly, then twice a month. His first service was on January 22, 1888. Soon after preaching began, a Sunday school was organized which is at this time (1915) continued as is the preaching services, every Sunday.
BURYING LOTS
Lotteryville had three burying places, one called the Sheffield burying lot, on the James Sheffield farm which he sold to Israel Chapman and is now the property of Ethel Burnett of Watch Hill. This burying lot is on the east side of the Watch Hill road, south of the junction of this and the shore road. It is a small walled lot, containing eleven graves. Nine of them are graves of Sheffield’s, the dates being 1776 - 1778 – 1810 – 1812 - 1824 and 1832.
The other two are those of Captain Jesse Dickens, drowned at sea, when returning from the West Indies, January 21, 1812, in the 29th year of his age, and that of his wife, Rethsheba Dickens who died in 1810, aged 26 years.
Another small burying ground was on land, adjoining and north of C. Palmer Chapman’s place, owned by Ethan Pendleton, then Jesse W. Hall. There were four graves here, Mrs. Hazard Burdick died in 1854, her son Franklin Burdick, Lyman Hall 2nd who died in 1854, and his wife, Abby P. Hall died in 1864. When Tristam D. Babcock purchased this land, he had permission from the relatives and removed the bodies to the cemetery at Ashway. The third and largest of the burying places was on the most southern point of Lotteryville, on the farm that is now George P. Champlin’s. This has always been known as “Burying-place point.” The lot is about one-half acre in size and contains eighty (80) or more graves, nearly all of them marked with a common field stone, to donate the place, but nothing to denote the person.
Update of Avondale history as featured in the “Westerly Law” 5/10/2002
If you’ve lived in the Westerly area for any length of time, you probably know the name Avondale, that it’s somewhere between downtown Westerly and Watch Hill, and that it’s pretty much along the water.
And that might be all you know. Fact is, Avondale is rich in history. The name “Avondale” first became known in this region in 1893, when Lotteryville a place on the Pawcatuck River where freights transferred heavy cargoes, petitioned to have its own post office. The federal government objected to the name because of local efforts to prohibit gambling.
The tiny village complied and submitted three names: Ninigret, Maxtuxet and Avondale. The name Avondale was chosen for no other reason than that the Indian names were considered difficult to pronounce and spell.
At the Lotteryville docks, export business thrived in axe handles, hoop poles and a wide variety of tools. The great gale of 1815 carried on of the Lotteryville docks and a store-house out to sea. Long after, fisherman continued reeling in agricultural implements on their lines.
Lotteryville has played a significant part in local history. There was a Mr. Potter (as he is referred to in a local history book) of Potter Hill, a member of the legislature and director of the Phoenix National and Westerly Savings banks. He died at age 93. In his will, he directed that his nephew, J. H. Potter, be appointed executor.
The latter Potter found in personal papers a commission from the governor dated May 9, 1814, which directed a Capt. Potter to mobilize his company and immediately march to Lottery Village “to meet, expel, and destroy the enemy.” This was an ambitious project, as it meant preventing the British from sending a force up the Pawcatuck River from Stonington that was prepared to attack that town. But it’s not clear according to some records, what eventually occured.
In 1848, Ethan Pendelton gave land for a church in Lotteryville.
This was significant because a peculiarity of the times was a form of religious hysteria. The Sunday school flourished, and those affected by this hysteria often fell down into a semi-conscious and ecstatic state, not an uncommon occurrence for the times. Fishing was the main industry of Lotteryville’s old-time families. These days, the area remains dotted with boatyards, as you will see when you take this “road less traveled.”
From downtown Westerly, follow the Pawcatuck River as Beach Street becomes Watch Hill Road, or drive out Shore Road and turn left onto Watch Hill Road. Turn right on Avondale Road and pass the tiny Avondale Chapel, which was built in 1847 and has getting a new coat of paint. Now head toward the river, and you’ll run smack into Frank Hall Boatyard. As much a part of local history as the village itself, the boatyard is near Avondale Boatyard and the Lotteryville Marina, which dates to 1749. The marina has made a concession to the 21st century. It has Web address carefully embossed on its rustic sign.
Boats still reign supreme in this slice of New England. They frame a landscape that beckons photographers and dreamers.
Now follow Avondale Road as it curves around the water and back up toward the main road. Turn right onto Champlin Drive. Follow Champlin to the end and gaze upon Colonel Willie’s Cove. The cove extends along Champlin near tiny Avondale Village, on the southeast side of the drive. It runs from the river up to Lower Avondale Road, which connects the village with Watch Hill Road.
It’s interesting that nobody seems to know who Colonel Willie was or what his association was with Lotteryville/Avondale, but locals nevertheless refer to the coves as “Colonel Willie’s or even “Colonel’s Cove.” Old Westerly Historical Society records show that at one time it was called Colonel Willet’s Cove.” Its marsh was a gathering place for Canadian geese, and it’s was popular with fisherman who fished through the ice for smelts in even the most severe winters.
Talk to an Avondale resident, and you just might hear mention of a “seining.” A seine is a fishing net that hangs vertically in the water, having floats at the upper edge and sinkers at the lower. From the time this area was known as Lotteryville, this little section along the river has been known for seining- especially for striped bass.
Some of the oldest families in the Westerly area have roots in Avondale. Here you can find familiar name such as Champlin, Hall, Buffum, Champion, Burdick, Babcock and Rathbun on homes, mailboxes and historical markers. When you venture back to the main road, turn right, visit the heart of Watch Hill and stop at the newly reopened Olympia Tea Room. If you have a light snack or perhaps an elaborate dinner, make sure you save room for their signature dessert: The Avondale Swan. It’s a popular confection named after a place that truly is quintessential New England.
Now it’s time for your visual desert. Award yourself the time to drive back to Avondale and take a walk along the river. Notice the unique architecture of century-old homes and, at night, the lights of Connecticut winking at you. This time of year, you might feel a slight chill on the back of your neck. It could be a breeze off the river. Or it might just be the spirit of Colonel Willie walking those familiar roads of old Lotteryville, tapping you on the shoulder and whispering, “Take another look, this is Avondale.”
